How to prune schisandra

The artificial cultivation of schisandra chinensis is critical if it is to obtain stable and high-yielding pruning.
1. The direction of cultivation of rows and rows of schisandra plants is best from north to south. Seedlings grew more vigorously during the summer of transplanting. Each plant had 3 to 4 strong lateral vines, vines, and upper stems, one seedling and two shoots, and two main vines per shoot. Cut off the main stalks of the original seedlings. When the main vines grow to 5O cm, they will be tipped to dry. To promote the branch under the cut buds grow young branches (ie, short fruit branches, also known as secondary shoots). When the young branch grows to 30 centimeters in length when selecting a strong branch does not hit the top to extend the main vine branch, the remaining auxiliary tip hits the tip at 2O cm, then only the tip of the auxiliary tip is played, and the extended branch does not hit the tip until the beginning of autumn.
2. The Liao Wuwei is a male and female plant. The number of female flowers is the key to the level of yield. n In the cultivation and management, by trimming and improving the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the shelves, the photosynthetic efficiency of the leaves can be increased, and the number of female flowers can be increased to ensure stable and high yields. Pruning builds a skeleton for stable production and high yields. Before the sap flowed in early spring, the main twigs of the last year were trimmed and 3O centimeters were cut off. The secondary tips were reduced to 2O centimeters. Without the auxiliary shoots, the main twigs should be extended and cut at 50 centimeters from the ground. Be dry. When the newly issued sub-tips under the clipper grow to 2O cm long, they will choose to leave an auxiliary tip and do not make a prolonged branch. The rest will be tipped at 2O centimeters to promote the fullness of the main buds and the buds on the secondary shoots. When the length of main twigs is extended to 5O cm high (including the original 30 cm), and once again tipping, the remaining auxiliary tip is left with 3O centimeters to make the tipping point, so that the nutrition is concentrated on the main twigs and the various shoots, which can increase the number of female flowers, so that Flower buds are fully ripe and full. The third time before and after the beginning of autumn, we must see the tip and hit it, prompting the lignification of the shoot as soon as possible to prevent frost damage from occurring.
3. When a large number of results are updated cyclically, the branches (results short branches) are fully reduced to 1O to 15 cm before the sap flow in early spring. When the flowering results are reached, new short fruit branches can be issued at the junction of the base and main twigs. Stay healthy and strong as a result of the next year branches, the rest cleared in time. When the pruning is carried out in the coming year, the old branches will be cut off and the branches will be updated with the new results. Afterwards, basically all of them will be cut. In addition, when the main vine branch climbs over the pole is not high enough, the branches will fall down and must be cut off at the top of the pole at 10 cm in time to prevent the “straw hat” from adverse light transmission.
In the summer growth season. The seedlings drilled from the underground stems should be cleared in time to prevent nutrients from competing with the parent shoots. In the base of the Schisandra plant will be issued a large number of basic leg buds, but also to remove small. If there is a lack of seedlings in the vicinity, a strong lead can be left on the rod. The main vines shall not be randomly intertwined with each other, and the auxiliary tip is always the auxiliary tip. Do not become the main vine. If this happens, correct it in time.
Schisandra pruning can be pruned in spring, summer and autumn, and timely summer cut is the key to the three seasons, there is no summer cut, not only can not produce a stable harvest, and even see the flowers no fruit. If you do not cut in summer, the branches will have a variety of competitions, entanglements, and luxuries, which are unfavorable to pollination, and the yield will be reduced year by year.

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