Is the term ‘food writer’ a valid description?
May 31, 2025
I’m subscribed to a number of culinary websites, including Christopher Kimball's Milk Street. In his latest email, Kimball took a controversial stance on food writers, stating that "[t]he entire notion of being a 'food writer' is suspect, since it should be no different than being a writer." He launched into a critique of modern food writing, suggesting that contemporary food writers unnecessarily complicate simple dishes with excessive, flowery language. He implied that earlier food writing was more straightforward and thus better, which feels like a nostalgic longing for a time that might never have existed.
Attached to the email was an image, though the link appears broken now, which only added to the disjointed tone of the message. Kimball went further, using his rant to criticize American eating habits. He mentioned how, during his visit to Calabria, locals preferred traditional, locally-sourced meals over flashy, Americanized creations like "Awesome Pretzel Chicken Tenders." He argued that a perfectly cooked burger doesn’t need "Donkey Sauce," and that dinner shouldn't feel like performance art. His tone throughout felt like an older generation lamenting changes they don't fully understand.
This isn’t new territory for Kimball. Back in 2012, he told *The New York Times* that he wasn’t a fan of celebrating cooking, describing it instead as a mundane necessity. He even expressed discomfort with the idea of finding pleasure in food. It’s clear that Kimball’s disdain for what he sees as excess extends beyond just food writing—it’s part of his public persona.
Kimball often portrays himself as a regular guy, rooted in simple, rural life. He writes fondly about farming, chopping wood, and tending cattle, evoking images of a Vermont farmhouse. Yet, anyone familiar with rural life knows this is more fantasy than reality. Growing up in tony Westchester County, New York, attending an elite prep school, and owning a vacation home in Vermont doesn’t exactly scream "everyman." Despite his attempts to come across as relatable, Kimball’s frequent trips to places like Calabria suggest a lifestyle far removed from the average person.
While Kimball has a point about the occasional excess in food writing, dismissing the entire category as illegitimate is overly simplistic. What else would you call someone whose primary focus is food? "Food writer" serves as a practical shorthand. Similarly, it’s unfair to paint all Americans as craving oversized portions and all Calabrians as adherents to minimalist dining. Many Americans cherish simple, well-prepared meals, and the farm-to-table movement is thriving across the country.
As I sit here surrounded by rows of books authored or edited by Kimball, I have to acknowledge his contributions. Cook’s Illustrated was pivotal in my development as a cook, and I’ve found plenty of great recipes in Milk Street cookbooks. I wish Kimball would drop the contrarian act and celebrate the things he loves without belittling those who enjoy different styles. After all, dinner can absolutely be performance art if that’s what you’re into. If Donkey Sauce makes your meal better, go for it. I love my oven’s full range of settings, and I’d be thrilled to try those Awesome Pretzel Chicken Tenders. At the end of the day, everyone should feel free to enjoy food however they like.
Dried Green Bean,Frozen And Dried Green Beans,Sliced Air Dried Green Beans,Freeze Dried Fd Green Beans
Jiangsu Tiankang Food Co., Ltd. , https://www.tiankangfood.com