Spring tree transplanting technology
Surgical Thread,Medical Suture Kits,Medical Thread And Needle Boda Medical Products Co., Ltd. , http://www.nbmedicals.com
1. Transplanting time The best transplanting time is from early January to early February in early spring every year. Because the trees are in a dormant or semi-dormant state at this time, their growth is weak and metabolic activity is slow. Shortly after the transplant, when the spring flowers bloom, the activities of the trees gradually become stronger and easier to survive. Avoiding transplanting in summer because of the high temperature and strong transpiration. After transplanting, it cannot solve the supply of water and nutrients in the trees and it is difficult to survive. 2, take piles (1) truncate. The cutting is an important part of the transplanting of old trees and piles. It is beneficial to reduce the water transpiration and nutrient consumption of leaves and maintain the balance between supply and demand in the tree. The amount of cuttings should be different depending on the age of the tree and the type of tree. For centuries old trees, it is best not to leave branches because of weak growth. Large trees that grow during prosperous periods can leave some branches properly. Broad-leaved trees have less branches for transpiration, and conifers can leave more branches. To remove diseased branches, leggy branches and cross branches. Afterwards, apply the wound with Vaseline or Bordeaux mixture. This will not only disinfect the body but also protect it from damage caused by pests and rain. (2) take piles. The diameter of the soil ball stump to be transplanted is about 6 to 8 times the diameter of the stump. If the diameter of the stump is 30 cm, the diameter of the soil ball needs to be 1.8 to 2.4 meters. For trees with more lateral roots, the diameter of the soil ball is larger. For trees with less lateral roots, the diameter of the soil ball may be slightly smaller, but deeper. When excavating, try to touch the soil of the soil ball as little as possible. When digging to 1/2 depth, the soil ball should be tied with soaked straw curtains and straw ropes. In order to reduce the transport weight, the earth ball will become smaller and deeper, making it a cone. When cutting the root, it is best to use a saw to cut off, so as not to damage the root. At the kerf area, spray of 0.05 gram of No. 6 rooting powder solution or 0.1% hydrazine acetic acid solution can promote the growth of new roots. After excavation, we must use wet grass curtains and straw ropes to wrap the earth ball and tie it. The grass rope should be tied to the trunk at a height of 2 to 1.5 meters. Wet the tied straw rope, which not only prevents the soil from loosening, but also helps to protect the trunk from scratches, avoids direct sunlight, and has a certain heat preservation and moisturizing effect. Before the tree stump is dug, it should be marked according to its direction. After digging down and putting it down, it is necessary to carry out the second planting of branches and cutting off the branches that must be cut off and not cut off for the first time. The wound should also be smeared with Vaseline for disinfection and protection, and then wrapped with plastic film on the outside. 3, transport in transport should pay attention to the following 3:00 is in the process of loading and unloading, to light up, do not touch the root of the earth ball, do not bump the trunk; the second is to prevent the tree in transit The old pile and the vehicle or the big tree old pile collide with each other, should pay attention to put in the buffer and each tree pile carries on the bundling fixed when the loading; Third, in the transportation way, must promptly to the earth ball and the tree hay rope Spray water to maintain humidity. 4, planting (1) digging pit. Digging is best done before the stumps arrive. The width and depth of the tree pit must be larger and deeper than the earth ball at the root of the stump. After digging the pits, fill in the mycorrhizal soil, mix in 5 kg of decomposed livestock manure, and 2 kg of phosphate fertilizer. Afterwards, fill the pits with water and use them as a reserve. (2) Planting. Use cranes or humans to gently lift the tree stumps and adjust the planting direction according to the orientation marks that were made when the seedlings were moved (growing in the original direction, that is, facing north still facing north). Use scissors to cut the packaged grass curtains on the soil ball and wrap the ropes. Fill the earth pits with rammed soil, step on the soil, and pour the water so that the trees and soil are tightly integrated. Set up a tripod around the big tree to support the trunk. 5, protection (1) watering. The trees that have just been planted have weak water-absorption capacity due to damaged roots, as well as high soil moisture in the spring, so the amount of watering does not have to be too high, otherwise it will easily cause moldy rot in the roots. In general, in addition to irrigating 1 time after planting, after 2 weeks, pour the water for the second time, and after 10 days, pour the water for the 3rd time. After that, the watering time should be gradually pulled apart. At the same time, the trunk should be often The grass rope is wet. (2) Infusion. At the base of the plant, drill 3 to 5 infusion holes from the top down at a 45-degree angle with a woodworking drill, deep to the medullary heart. Each litre of water was dissolved in 0.1 g of ABT6 rooting powder and 0.5 g of potassium dihydrogen phosphate was blended into the infusion agent for trees. The liquid can not only rejuvenate the plant, but also stimulate the vitality of the protoplasm in the tree, thereby promoting rooting and increasing the survival rate of the transplant. Hang the bottle containing the tree infusion solution in a high place, insert the syringe under the tree into the infusion hole, open the infusion switch, and the liquid can be delivered into the tree. After the liquid has been fed, pull out the needle and plug the infusion hole with a cotton swab. The infusion can be done by inserting a cotton plug at the next infusion. The number of infusions and the interval between them were determined according to the weather conditions (degree of drought, temperature level) and the water requirement of the plants. Under normal circumstances, the infusion started in April. After the plants completely escaped the dangerous period in September, the infusion could be ended and the seal was sealed with Bordeaux mixture. (3) shade shed. In mid-April, when the weather gets warmer, the temperature gradually rises, and the transpiration of the tree gradually increases. At this time, the shade should be set in the three directions of the tree (leaving the northwest for photosynthesis) and the top of the tree. Avoid direct sunlight, prevent skin burns, and ensure the balance of supply and demand of moisture and nutrients. After October, the weather gradually became cooler and the shelter could be removed. (4) wipe the tip. After the end of March, adventitious buds on the tree gradually transformed into new shoots. If too many shoots are sprouted, they should be erased. The principle of general tipping is to leave sparsely, stay weak and stay strong, go to the middle of the base and top. Leave 5 to 7 buds on one branch. (5) Foliar fertilization. Foliar liquid fertilizer is prepared by dissolving 1 kg of urea into 200 kg of water. The time of spraying should be selected from 7 to 9 o'clock in the morning or from 5 to 7 o'clock in the afternoon on sunny or cloudy days. Good ability. (6) Wintering. Before the winter season, the trunk was brushed with Bordeaux white and covered with straw. In case of extremely cold and snowy weather with low temperatures, it is also possible to use the method of burning fire and earth ash in addition to the snow.